When I was in college, I took an Intro to Oceanography course to fulfill a science credit. On the first day of class, the professor had us take a pop-quiz to assess our general knowledge and asked us to name at least four creatures that you might find in a tide pool. I leaned over to my friend and asked, “What’s a tide pool…?”
Fast forward to a month ago when my friend Audrey asked if I wanted to bail on Thanksgiving and join her on a surf trip down the California coast, that question from my Oceanography class replayed in my mind. Despite taking that course, my lack of knowledge for oceans or ocean sports in general is still quite appalling. But a couple months ago I stood on a surfboard for the first time and rode a wave for .75 seconds and I’ve been addicted ever since. So of course I said yes.
Over the next five days, we stopped in Big Sur, Morro Bay, Santa Barbara, and Ventura surfing and shooting and consuming a lot of cookies and plantain chips. We met up with friends in Santa Barbara who invited us in on Thanksgiving, took us to some new beaches, and provided one of the best driveways that I’ve ever slept in.
I’m not totally sure what I was expecting when I signed up for this trip, but it exceeded all expectations. I’m ready to ditch climbing completely, move to SoCal, and shoot and surf little waves for the rest of my life.
I’m also psyched to be a beginner again and totally stoked to shoot something totally different. There’s nothing like a new environment to completely inspire me to dork around with different shots. However, the problem with shooting all the time is that I’m not getting any better at surfing… That’s ok though. For now, I’m cool with floating around while the light dances across the water.